Sunday, 28 September 2014

Gilgandra Way

From Lightning Ridge we passed through towns such as Walgett, Coonamble and Galargumbone.   All great names especially the last.  I am still on watch for a Westfields or at least an Aldi.  But sadly no such luck in north west NSW.  It was one of those days that felt good to be alive, looking out the car window the sun was shining there was little white fluffy marshmallowy clouds and yellow sunflowers growing by the side of the road.  All was quiet in the back seat as Grace an James have discovered finger knitting and are busy decorating the back of the car in they handy work.  The back seat resembles a spider web at the moment.


We found a nice little park in Gilgandra with green grass and shady trees, got set up then headed up town to restock the fridge and food cupboards.  It was cool overnight , we needed to put the heater on and I took my bed socks and hot water bottle to bed.

As I mentioned above no Aldi or Westfields but maybe thats just as well.  We had a lovely chat to the lady in the local Craft shop today and ended up swapping phone numbers.  In Galargumbone  we had a chinwag with some locals at the shops.  I'v had my haircut here in Gilgandra and got talking to a lovely local.  I don't remember the last time I had a conversation with a stranger at a westfields.

As we are heading south Petes family is heading north and Gilgandra was our meeting point.  We spent the afternoon watching the road outside the park and excitedly waiting for their arrival.  We  had a great afternoon and evening catching up.  The kids had a fab time and the noise volume in the caravan park went up a few decibels.  We even went for a walk to the local oval and Pete and the kids all practiced throwing a boomerang.  This morning we farewelled and each headed in our own directions.

Lessons learnt from our stop in Gilgandra, it is just as rewarding to talk to strangers as it is to spend time with family.






Friday, 26 September 2014

Red Elephants Noodling in Lightning Ridge

I know you are thinking that with that title that we got down and dirty in Lightning Ridge.  Well you are absolutely right.  The four Red Elephants  sat in a big pile of dusty clay rocks with spray bottles in hand looking for the elusive opal amongst the rocks.  The technical term for this is Noodling.  You are thinking of Can-noodling a whole different ball game, so to speak.
Welcome to Lightning Ridge

Stanley his body is made from cars

We spent our first afternoon at the Chamber of the Black Hand.  This is an underground mine that has been turned into a work of art.  We where there to see the sculptures I did not realise there was a mine tour included.  Well Pete who is claustrophobic freak out.  But he manned up and came down down down into the depths of the mine.  Sixty five feet deep underground  through tunnels that where only as wide as one body.  It was all very interesting to hear how they mine the opal and what they look for.  The opal is found mostly along the "roof line"  of the mine.  I did not realise but not all opal has the vibrant colours that we know.  But the best part was this labyrinth of underground tunnels where the walls had been dug out and sculptured into all sorts of things like Buddha, Superman, the cast of Nemo, elephants, various famous Australians and politicians.  It was amazing to see and seemed to go on and on we thought we would never see daylight again.  If you are ever in Lightning Ridge I would highly recommend a visit to the Chamber of the Black Opal.


We returned to the park just in time for the afternoons entertainment.  Willy (not Nelson)  and Jo a pair of locals singing their country best.  We all had one eye on the entertainment and one eye the dark Storm clouds brewing.  We made a run for it back to Willow stowed our camp chairs, zippered up our windows  so  I thought .  Pete raced across to help save a tent that was blowing around int he strong wind and  help pack up some their stuff that had been left outside.  It was a doozey of a storm and hung around half the night.  We had lightning, thunder, huge rain and the wind.  I soon discovered I had missed a window and our pillows where wet.    I found another lady later on the ladies toilets trying to dry her bedding under the hand dryer.
Amigo's Castle



The next day we visited the Bottle house.  Fifty years ago this chap and a few mates decided to build a house out of bottles.  It even had a loft to sleep in and a fire place to do their cooking.  Fair enough I guess, there was probably no wood to build house, to expensive to transport bricks and there was all these empty bottles at the Pub 70 km away.  So why not build a house out of Bottles.  Actually truth be told it was more of a shack.

Amigo who we did not get to meet but must be quite a character has built his own personal Castle in Lightning Ridge.  It's impressive and full of cats.

We ended our stay with a soak in the Artesen Bathes.  It was lovely and warm at a reportedly 40'.  Another visitor said she would like to cook her chicken soup in there.

I ask myself what would possess people to do sculpts in mining shafts and tunnels 60 foot underground, build houses out of bottles and build castles in what is really the middle of no-where bu is actually Lightning Ridge.


Wednesday, 24 September 2014

Roaming around Roma

The last couple of days we have stayed in small towns with not a lot to offer.  We have also broken the draught in  South Western Queensland and Northern NSW.

I can report we did stay in Roma for 2 nights.  Brindi the car went in for a service as she has been making a noise in the front drivers wheel that has been worrying Pete.  The one attraction for Roma is the Big Rig it is an out side attraction and due to the wet weather we did not visit.  Roma is known for its oil and gas drilling and has the biggest cattle sale yard in the southern hemisphere.

We didn't buy a cow but did watch the cattle sales.  It did seem like organised chaos with gates banging close here and there, cows going this way and that.  A chap calling out numbers and cattlemen decked out in their akubra's clutching little notebooks and putting up the occasional finger.  We got talking to some retired cattle people there property was over 700 km away.  This is what we learned and keep it in mind next time you are buying your meat.  Their cows sold for $50 per head it cost them $30 to transport them to the cattle sales at Roma.  They would have experience other costs, like selling fee's, accommodation and I guess the feed and other miscellaneous cost I have no idea about.  It doesn't leave much $$ for our poor old Cattlemen does it?

It's not on the any of the tourist brochures but I am about to tell you Roma's best kept secret.  HABERDASHERY!!  The ACE DRAPERS #2  the biggest haberdashery shop I have ever entered.   Imagine floor to ceilings rolls of fabric either side of a 20 metre long aisle.  Turn the corner and down the next aisle just the same  with patterns poked in where they fit.  The next aisle buttons with cowboy hats sitting on the top shelf.  Zippers,  Ribbons, Braid, Knitting Needles and what this Pudding Bowls.  Wool and school uniforms mixed in together.  This may be your own private heaven or hell but you must experience it.


We then overnighted in the most cute little park in St George.  It was lovely and clean and there was green grass and shady trees.  There was even a pizza oven in the camp kitchen so we had Pizza for tea.   The only downfall was the killer Magpie that swooped us as soon as we got out of the car.  His nest was right above our site.  I had to run back to the check in desk with arms waving above my head, ducking from the magpie to ask for  a magpie safe site.  I must say that the human occupants of the caravan park where all very friendly and nice.  St George was our 69th and last night in Queensland.  St George is a lovely village wide streets big houses on big blocks that are well kept.  St George sits on the Ballone River and this is a wide river that apparently has some of the best inland fishing.

We have  covered some very dry country up here and seen suffering and bony livestock, it makes me very sad.  As you go about your lives back in the cities and on road trips like us, please keep in mind how hard people are doing it  out west and in the outback.

Sunday, 21 September 2014

Carnarvon Gorge - Its Gorgeous

Carnarvon Gorge – Its Gorgeous

Carnarvon Gorge it would seem is in the middle of no –where.  In fact it is 40km of the highway halfway between Emerald and Roma.  We stayed at the Takaraka campsite.  What a great name that is Takaraka rhymes with maraca.

Once you leave the highway you are driving through unfenced cattle farms and have the pleasure of sharing the road with moo cows of various colours.

Art Gallery

Wards Gorge

Ampitheatre

Moss Garden

View from the Bluff

On arrival we attended a information session on the park and its various walks.  We were advised to walk to the almost furtherest point up the gorge and work our way back, a total of 14 km.  I thought there is no way we could walk that far.  But, you know we did  and every km was worth it.   The path was wide and crissed crossed over the creek and was mostly flat ,running up the middle of the gorge.  First we visited the Art Gallery, that had aboriginal rock art running up the length of the wall.  Amazing to see the colours and I wonder how they have lasted the test of time.  We walked down a bit further and called into what is called Wards Gorge a small gorge but very impressive with King Ferns growing inside and a small creek running through it.  This where we stopped for lunch as it was lovely and cool and we also filled up our drink bottles from the creek.  Next up we climbed into the Ampitheatre.  WOW  imagine a big cave with sides reaching to 700 metres up to the sky and with a open roof.  WOW!  Back onto the main track and we walk a bit further down and pop into the Moss Garden.  Cave like but again with a small creek and waterfall with moss covered walls.   Then a  45 minute walk back to the carpark.  Pete and I conked out in our campchairs with a cuppa, the kids ran around chasing a ball!!  James fell asleep within seconds last night and Grace couldn’t get to sleep due to sore legs.

So obviously after a big  14  km walk you get up early at 6am for a spot of Platypus watching.  Luckily the platypus did not let us down.  He was having a jolly old time popping up and then diving back down again.


Now let me tell you the way to recover from such a big walk is to follow it up the next day with a climb of over 937 steps to the top of the Gorge for the most spectacular views up and down the length of the Carnarvon Gorge.  The recipe for jelly legs is to go back down those 937 steps in a hurry as there is no toilet at the top.

Monday, 15 September 2014

Emerald - A Foka licking Good Time

Emerald makes me think of the Wizard of Oz, I'm not sure why, but I'm sure one of my friends or you good readers will enlighten me.  Was it the home of the Good Witch or Bad Witch?  Anyhow's  we are staying out of Emerald at lake Maraboon, its very pleasant.  There is a little bit of green grass and shady trees so I am a happy camper once again.  The first night we went to sleep to the sound of rain on the roof,  I don't need to tell you we all slept well.  Yesterday was a very comfortable 20' and today was a bit warmer 26'.  You will all think I am obsessed by the temperature so I will try not to mention it again.

 This area is known for it's gem fields.  Grace has been hanging out for this part of our trip.  She is our little gem loving, gem.  So yesterday saw us going for a drive to Sapphire and Rubyvale about 40 km away.  We think we sighted a Bustard Bird on our way but not sure.   So we went to Pats Gem bought a bucket of wash for $10 and we where then instructed by the lovely Denise on how to sift, wash and fossick for the gems, mostly sapphires.  I can report that we did have luck and walked away very pleased with our little bag of precious gems.  Grace was in her element and had a great time.  We then had a tour of a local mine and to be honest we bummed out on this one as it was not very good at all.
At the wash

Looking for gems

Heres a fun game you can play.  How many variations on the word Fossick can you come up with?  Here are some of our unintentional examples ; fossilicking, fossilising, fok-a-sing!  Now try to match the right Red Elephant with their version of Fossicking.

We had such a great time foset ding  that we went back today.  Grace and James shovelled the lucky bucket of wash as we had luck again.  But the best part of our day was being shown a mine by a local man by the name of Tim who happens to be Denise's hubby.  He took us down his mine in his lift and showed us around underground explaining how everything worked and how safe we where.  I did feel very safe, it was like being down in a bigger version of a mousey hole.  We then all went up where Tim showed us how all the above ground "stuff" worked and showed us his very flash room that he polish's and facet's the gems he finds.  What a lovely man, and Tim if you are reading this, we will have fond memories of the afternoon we spent with you and your mine.  We hope that one day you find that special Gem.
James Excavating

Going down


On our way back to the park we spotted wild Goats and wild Camels and a long train full of cattle (choo choo train not road train).





Friday, 12 September 2014

Longreach

The drive to Longreach was a short one of 2.5 hours.  It was a lot of the same dry countryside .  We saw the occasional Emu's and live kangaroo's.  A lot of roadkill beside the road.  Leaving Winton we seemed to inadvertently got ourselves in a caravan convoy.  There seemed to be at least 4 caravans in front of us.

Longreach was hot and dusty the caravan park was just like a big flat dusty parking lot.  Not surprising I guess as they have not had rain in 7 years.  Pete and I have been craving a blade of green  grass or a
green leafy tree, can you imagine how the locals feel.

We had a quick squize up and own the main street and then headed to the Qantas Foundation Museum.      This was very good and told the story of Qantas's inception and the early years,  all very interesting.  There was a flight simulator that Pete and the kids enjoyed.  I would recommend wearing a parachute if you are brave enough to get in a plane they are piloting.  We hid from the heat inside for as long as we could then headed to local IGA to stock up.  Prices are not so bad, but fruit and veg here in the outback does not seem to last in the heat  and is already on the turn when  you buy it.

We returned to the caravan only to discover 2 things: 1)  the cool change had not arrived, 2)  James had left his hat behind at the Qantas museum.  So back in the car to the museum and then we decided it was too hot to cook so we had a lovely dinner at the RSL and had a round of UNO.  We returned to find that it had indeed cooled down ever so slightly.


Up early the next day to go to school, School of the Air that is.  Although it is now called School of Long Distance Education.  What an eye opener for my children to learn how children in the outback do their schooling and to find out that they only get to spend 1 week twice a year at school with their friends.   All of us in the cities should be grateful of the schools we have close to home and the many resources that are available to our children.  They truly are lucky and a little spoilt I think.

We then went to the Stockmans Hall of Fame.  A great museum not only about stockmen, but all things about Australia's rural history right back from when Australia was first discovered, to the explorers and their expeditions.  We then moved on to the early pioneers and they way of life,  types of farming and natural disasters and plagues.  The kids favourite was the Royal Flying Doctors and then lastly the Stockmen.  We also watched a stockman show where we learnt about how he breaks his horses in, mustering, cattle dogs on the job and a few country songs thrown in for good measure.  James has since been practising cracking his whip and yelling yee  haa.


So we now have a whole new appreciation for the outback and the people who live out here.   I must admit and  I don't want to offend anyone but I think I am more of a green mountain, tall tree's and waterfall type of gal.


Wednesday, 10 September 2014

Winton Home of Dinosaurs and Waltzing Matilda

Winton - home of Dinosaurs and Waltzing Matilda and the  wilting great southern Red Elephant who is passing through.  Well we left Karumba and headed south it was a big days drive of over 400km.  We stopped at the famous Bourke and Wills roadhouse for yummy pies for lunch.  We have had three pies on this trip and all agreed that the Bourke and Wills pies where the best.  We then drove onto Cloncurry just for an overnight stop and then the next morning on the road early for Winton.  Since leaving the east coast we have had temperatures in the mid to high 30's.  Was totally not expecting such high temperatures and we are all suffering.

Bourke and HIlls Roadhouse

We are definitely in the outback, the land is flat dry grass, spindly trees if any, Emu's and Kangaroos can spotted from the car windows.  Roadtrains are making their mark, they were scary and exciting at first but now they are just exciting.  We have scene one with 4 carriages,if that is what you call them.  The land although flat and dry does change slightly with the colour of the dirt , rocks and anthills.

Winton is a little town it has 3 claims to fame one being is it's where qantas was dreamed up and the first board meeting was held.  Second it's where AB Paterson penned Waltzing Matilda and it was sung for the first time in the Gregory Hotel of Winton.  The third is this is a place where Dinosaurs bones have been found.
AB Paterson and Waltzing Matilda Winton

Setting up his Swaggie Camp


So we went to the Waltzing Matilda,that was very good and made you feel proud to be an Aussie.  So we learnt all about Banjo Patterson, Waltzing Matilda, Swaggies and a whole lot about Wintons history.  The kids got a great education on Swaggies and squatters and troopers and a jolly jumbuck.  Why do people not say Jolly anymore?  I think we should all start using Jolly, go on use it today!  It so JOLLY hot and dusty here in the outback!
Dinosaur Vertabrate half revealed


Onto the Dinosaurs.  Well what a great time we had.  I think a certain pink person in the family might be keen to be a digger upperer of dinosaur bones.  First we got to see the two Dinosaurs they have semi  dug up and put together.  Banjo and Matilda  what an amazing site to see real fossilised dinosaur bones and compare then to a cows bones and our bones.  We then walked over to the Lab were they work on uncovering the bones.  We were shown how they are removed from the site, wrapped up and protected.  Then they are either painstakingly put back together,or, the dirt and rocks surrounded the bones are carefully removed.  You would really need a lot of patience.  Our two guides were young and had studied either geology or palentology and they were so passionate and enthusiastic.
Fossilized Dinosaur Bones


At the front of our park in Winton was a small farm of animals we had fluffy chooks and their chickens a wooly sheep, fuzzy llama and three kid goats.  Grace and James spent a lot time making friends with the animals.  Our site backed onto a horse paddock, they also made one specially horsey friend.  As we left this morning James who is always a little scared of animals called over his shoulder "good bye horsey, I love you."

James and his Horsey

Monday, 8 September 2014

HI Karumba

Hi Karumba, it's not just a party greeting!!  Karumba is on the Gulf of Carpentaria and HI KARUMBA we are here.  Karumba is famous for it's sunsets over the gulf, water.  Tonight after a hot drive we lashed out and celebrated day 6O of travels and reaching Karumba with fish and chips at the Karumba Sunset Tavern.  Guess where we are staying ?? Go on guess?  Ok we are at the Karumba Sunset Van Park.  HI Karumba!!  Karumba is also famous for its prawns fishing especially Barra and yes Crocodiles so far, out of all this marine life I have spotted a green frog!  Hi Karumba!

Road to Normanton

Petes Croc!


We drove from Croyden, Croyden is a VERY small town with one Pub and old shop that also doubles as a petrol station (2 pumps).  But surprisingly it used to be a thriving town of 3 to 4  thousand due to gold.  We had a poke around this morning for 1.5 hours before left.  We checked out the old convenience store 4 heritage buildings and enjoyed a movie in the visitors centre.  All  of this for free or a donation if you wish.  Actually worth mentioning is the road into Croyden from Undara, it constantly would change from single lane to two lane.  When I say single lane I mean it would only fit one car both ways.  So if another car approached from the other way you would both have to move to the edge of the road to pass.  Most people where great except for one little white car who refused to move over, we all know what he is called!!
Croydon Pub


Wonderful Murals on pub walls


We passed through Normanton another small town that is famous for the Gulflander and old train that is said goes from nowhere to nowhere.  In fact it goes from Normanton to Croyden, but I would have to agree with the first statement.  Normanton to Karumba the land was incredibly flat and the outside temperature was 34.   We did see flocks of Brolga's on the wetlands on the way in,later on we saw a pair of Brolga's dancing on the golf course.
The Gulflander look BUT do not touch



Hi Karumba itself is very isolated and is very much a fisherman's village, actually the village itself is split into 2 and both have very small supermarkets, there is no Coles,Woolies or Aldi.  I have been most curious as to what the locals do for their weekly grocery shop as if I did my weekly shop here there would be nothing left on the shelves.  So I asked and the answer is a few families do a big monthly shop and order online from Woolies back in Cairns (750km) the order then arrives at 5am on a given day.   Children here when they reach high school are sent to the east coast (Cairns) or Mt Isa to boarding school.  We are so lucky and take the 5 minute drive to our local Woolies  and our local school for granted.

My final comment on Hi Karumba is that sometimes you don't find a special place but its the people you meet that make place special.  Good BYE  KARUMBA!

Thursday, 4 September 2014

Undara Lava Tubes


So we have left the Eastern Coast of Australia and are heading through the Gulf country before we head south and for home.  Having left the lushness of Atherton we passed through Queenslands highest    town in altitude, Ravenshoe, and then onto the Savannah Way.  Boy did the countryside change dramatically.  Gone where the rolling green hills, to be replaced with open, flat dry savannah country and lots of anthills.  Clever are the ants who build anthills of different colours and designs.

Must admit we where both feeling a little bit emotional reflecting on all we have seen and done and everything achieved to get the Red Elephants this far.  Thinking also of our trip home and all we will see.  Thinking of our homecoming and seeing our family and friends again.
Savannah Country, Volcano Crator in the distance

Lava Tubes


Anyways…..Who knew there was such a thing as Lava Tubes?  I certainly did not.  And who knew you could walk in the Lava Tubes, not me.

So we have just spent 2 nights at the Undara Lava Tubes.  Truth be told, one night would probably have been enough for us.  The Lava Tubes are actually on an old Cattle Station that has been handed back to National Parks.  We stayed on site and it was very dry and dusty, not real pleasant.  The temperature the last few days has been well over 30', so those who know me will know that I do not cope well in such conditions.  Luckily there was a pool and quite a bit of time was spent sitting around the pool.  The Lava Tubes themselves are amazing.  We had to clamber down a rocky path to access the tubes.  They are  big and cave like, you could drive a train through the first one we went into.  The second one started as a very big cave, almost cathedral like and then we walked through the tunnel.  The tunnel itself was still big enough to walk 5 people abreast.   As you can only see the tubes by going on a guided tour that is what we did.  Most older people seem to do several tours but for us one was enough.  James was disappointed as he was expecting to see "lava."

The two nights we where there we attended Trivia by the campfire and on the second night Poetry by the campfire.  James and Grace where the only children in attendance so the first page of trivia was directed at them.  One of the old timers said after wards the score was Kids 10 Adults 0.  All I can say about the poetry by the campfire was that it was seriously  lacking in the Poppy pizzazz.  Two of Poppies favourite poems where read ,being, Mulga Bills Bicycle and the man from Iron Bark.  We all agreed we would need a bit of Poppy Poetry when we get home.